How do I know if I have the right neck size?

If you go to a custom tailor (or have Joe Hemrajani come to you), this question will never concern you because you will get a custom made shirt with a great fit. For the sake of answering the question, you need to be able to slip three fingers inside the buttoned collar. Anything less is probably too tight. And unless you want to look like your neck was inflated with helium, don't stretch the issue by going too small. While we're on that subject, be sure to try on a shirt before buying it, if possible. Neck sizes vary among shirt brands. It's not that shirt manufacturers don't know how to count to 17. It's just that there are minor variations in the way shirts are constructed that account for slight differences that can ultimately be a pain in the neck.

Monograms and why you shouldn't stick to the script.

Good monograms are the ones that are hand stitched. They are usually done in capital letters, unlike their distant machine stitched cousins that are done in a telltale script. Rule of thumb: Sign letters in script. Have monograms done by hand. And have your custom tailor show you the best placement for the letters. The pocket or lapel is usually too "in the face." Better to employ a bit of subtlety by putting monograms on the left side of the shirt, about two thirds of the way down towards the belt or on the cuff.

Suitable Advice

Pinstripes can be an asset in men's suits.
Pinstripes and chalk stripes are very much at home in the business world, and probably have never taken an extended vacation from accepted attire. You will always look good in one of these classic men's suits. They tend to be conservative, like the London financial types who have made them staples of the wardrobe. And that can be a good thing. What better way to say you know how to handle money than wear the styles made famous by professional bean counters and bond traders? Jolly good, I should say.

When wearing double-breasted men's suits. Yes, the double-breasted men's suit is still acceptable and can be quite nice for variety. Just be sure to keep it buttoned unless you want to look like an extra in a gangster movie.

On taking off your jacket in a business meeting.
Don't do it. It informs the whole room that you are not well mannered. And that cannot be good for business.

I thought all buttons were plastic.
Think again. The best-looking and best quality buttons are made of mother of pearl or horn. Ask your custom tailor to show you the difference.

Odds And Ends

On tucking ties into shirts and over the shoulder.
Just don't do it. The tie is only in place when it is knotted beautifully at the neck and hangs straight down to the belt, overlapping by an inch or so. If your tie insists on dipping in the soup, you may simply have to assume a more vertical posture or order something else. The over-the-shoulder look is something you will only find among the "Worst Dressed Men of the 21st Century." Let your tie blow in the breeze. It won't hurt it.

If your tie is creased, it might be time for a sauna.
Steam is actually the best thing you can do for a creased tie. The moisture softens the fabric and the unsightly marks disappear. Saunas are good for people, too, but don't count on them to permanently remove wrinkles from the face. Better to accept your natural features as signs of wisdom and character. We can help you put your best face forward with the appropriate collars for your custom made shirts.

Brown or black shoes for a navy blue men's suit?
Depends on where you are in the world. In the United States, brown oxfords are the overwhelming choice. England takes a darker view and opts for black.

Where does the wallet go?
When gentlemen reach for their wallet, they move their right hand in the direction of their left breast pocket of their jacket. It's not that they are necessarily giving from the heart-they simply know that a wallet in the slacks will create a distracting element that signifies a lack of refinement.

The high price of gasoline on suede shoes.
If you've ever taken a pair of suede shoes to have stains removed and come home with a permanent blemish, don't blame the cobbler. Gasoline is not only priced through the roof, it also puts a permanent damper on even the most resistant suede shows. Solution: Go to a full service station and pay the price. Or handle the hose with care and step back a few inches from the tank. And yes, barefoot is another option, but it does present some challenges.

How do I know if my tailor is good
Word of mouth and reputation are the best recommendations. A great custom tailor will have no problem providing you with names of happy customers. If the tailor responds instead by telling you how wonderful he is and how he can go anything you want, chances are it's not a good fit.