Collars and Cuffs: Fused vs Non-Fused
There’s a difference between fused vs non-fused collars and cuffs and many factors play a part in deciding which to choose. Read to learn more.
Collars on dress shirts are different than casual polos and oxfords, in that they are typically stiff to the touch, and also come with long pointy inserts called collar stays. Collar stays assist in keeping the points pointy and in place, so the collar doesn’t flop around or move when wearing a tie. The following is a detailed description of how they become stiff during production, and the difference in fused versus non-fused.
There are three layers to a collar – two layers of the body fabric and one layer of the interlining in the middle. Collars can be fused where the top layer is bonded with industrial glue to the interlining only using special heat pressing machines. Fused collars look clean and crisp and they are easy for home and commercial laundering. Most ready-to-wear shirts are fused today, and it’s easy for any manufacturer to make fused collars.T his same gluing technique is applied to cuffs. This is an important aspect to the cuffs as the added stiffness helps to keep the sleeve in place and look neat.
The other option in collar construction is non-fused; which instead of glue has a full floating canvas. Essentially, the interlining is floating between the two layers of fabric. Non-fused collars have a better feel with a natural roll in a button down or a Neapolitan spread collar. Additionally, non-fused collars make cleaning the collar much easier because the dirt does not get clogged in the glued layer. If you have a problem with the dreaded “ring around the collar,” which are essentially skin oil collar stains, having a non-fused collar will be advantageous because it can withstand a good scrubbing and there is no need to worry about any glue breaking down over time. The floating canvas is also offered for cuffs and is an excellent alternative, since cuffs are frequently stained and require a bit of a scrub to clean as well. It takes an experienced and trained shirt maker to make the clean looking non-fused collars and cuffs with a floating canvas and we are happy to offer this to customers. It’s also important to note that non-fused collars require hand pressing (very important to let your cleaners know) to avoid unnatural gathers and puckers that collect at the tips and edges of the collar. The ironer needs to begin at the points and iron to the backside of the collar.